Have a safe Memorial Day!Best ways to divert water runoff, remove popcorn ceilings

Tips on proper equipment, safety
By: Paul Bianchina: Inman News
Q: I need to divert water away from my house. Can you tell me how far back from the house I need to start the diversion? –H.R., via e-mail

A: To start with, the soil surrounding the house should be a minimum of 6 inches below the level of the siding. From there, if the house sits on level ground the soil should be sloped down at least 1/4-inch per foot away from the house for a distance of at least 3 feet out in all directions.
If the house is on a hillside, then the soil on the uphill side needs to be excavated down to create a swale – a roughly v-shaped low area – behind the house. The swale should be situated a minimum of 3 feet out from the house, and is constructed so that soil from the house slopes down to the swale, as does the hill itself. The size, depth and location of the swale is dependant on the slope of the hillside as well as the soil conditions in the area, but it needs to be of sufficient size and depth so that water coming off the hillside cannot rise to such a level that it would reach the house. The swale also needs to be constructed in such a manner that is does not direct water from your lot onto a neighboring property.

Site grading for hillside lots is always difficult, both from a technical and a legal standpoint. It requires both skill and the proper equipment to determine the exact slopes and grade levels, and I would definitely suggest that you consult with an experienced, licensed excavation contractor for any grading of this type.

Q: What is the procedure for removing that cottage cheese ceiling material, back to a smooth ceiling? Gloria M., via e-mail

A: "Cottage cheese" or "popcorn" acoustic ceiling treatments are actually pretty easy to remove, but it's a slow and messy process.

First, cover all the floors and walls with plastic sheeting. Starting in one corner, use a spray bottle or a small garden sprayer filled with plain water and mist a small section of the ceiling. You want the acoustic material moist but not soaking wet. Using a drywall taping knife or other broad metal scraper, simply scrape off the damp material.

Move across the ceiling in this manner, spraying and scraping one section at a time. You'll quickly get a feel for how much water to use and how big an area to work on at one time. Take care to keep the scraper at a low angle in relation to the ceiling. The idea is to scrape the acoustic material off without gouging or otherwise damaging the drywall underneath.

What you will find under the popcorn is dependant on how much time the original drywaller took with the installation. In some cases, you will find that the drywall has been topped and finished completely, and only minor touchup is required to get it smooth. In other cases, you may find that the drywall was only rough-taped, and
one or more top coats of joint compound will be needed to even everything out. Once the ceiling is smooth, apply a primer coat and then texture and paint it as desired.

One word of caution: Up until the early 1980s – and even beyond in some areas – acoustic ceiling material contained asbestos. Before removing the material in your house, you should scrape off a small portion in an unobtrusive spot and send it in to be tested. You can find out more about asbestos testing labs in the phone book or on the Web.

Q: I have a home with high ceilings and I would like to install some crown molding. I'm looking for something fairly large, but so far we have had no success in finding anything locally. Any suggestions you might have for outlets or suppliers would be greatly appreciated. -Harry S., via e-mail.

A: Any large lumberyard should have catalogs of moldings that they can order for you. Just explain to any of the folks at the counter what you're looking for, and they can show you what's available. It will be by special order (so be sure you order a little extra), but orders typically only take a week or so.

If the crown moldings will be painted, you might want to consider using polyurethane instead of wood. Polyurethane moldings are lighter, less expensive, and paint beautifully, and they are also available in an amazing number of sizes and patterns. Two places to check out on the Web are Outwater Plastics at www.outwater.com, and Profile Mouldings at www.profilemouldingsusa.com. Both sites will give you a lot of ideas, and you can order directly from them if desired.

Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paul2887@direcway.com.